Connecticut Magazine - November 2014

American classics get sophisticated reimagining and dainty plating at NIXS Hartford, the latest modern (and delicious) dining option to appear in downtown Hartford in the last few months. Opened recently, this chic restaurant serves small and large plates (from the sea, land and garden) meant for sharing. In a nod to maritime associations of the NIXS brand, the restaurant offers an impressively fresh raw bar of oysters, clams and shrimp. “We want to have this community, family, party environment,” says NIXS Director of Operations Ashley Blain. “The worst part of going to a restaurant is making a decision. Here you make a lot of decisions and get to try a lot of things. It’s all about creating a sense of community.” From the bar, New England microbrews flow, along with wine and an extensive list of inventive cocktails, which can be ordered by the glass or half and full carafes. Cocktails are also bottled on site. NIXS Hartford, located in the newly bustling Front Street District, is the brand’s third location. The original two are in Massachusetts—in Boston and Nantucket. A fourth is set to open in Newburyport. The restaurant chain derives its name from Nix’s Mate (or Nix’s Island), a small island in the Boston Harbor Islands National Recreation Area. The story goes that in 1726 pirate captain William Fly was arrested and brought to Boston to be executed. His body was hung on Nix’s Mate to serve as a warning to other sailors not turn to piracy. Before his execution, Fly famously scolded the hangman for incorrectly securing the noose, and he retied it himself. His body is buried on Nix’s Mate, along with two other pirates, one of whom pleaded not guilty to the end and said the island would sink into the sea to prove his innocence. Since 1803, Nix’s Mate has disappeared each day in high tide. However, the NIXS restaurants take more than just names from the island; the emphasis on fresh, local New England seafood is a natural extension. While Hartford is a long way from the Boston Harbor, the seafood here is taken just as seriously as it is at the flagship location off the docks. The grilled salmon and the swordfish in the restaurant’s version of surf and turf (the turf is crispy pork belly) are both fresh, flaky and seasoned well (while the sides may lack a little panache). But one bite of all the components on the plate brings the culinary vision to light. These two big plates are crowd-pleasers, as are many of the small-plate options. The braised short rib tacos are bingeworthy, served with creamy black beans and green apple slaw. Three tacos are served per order, but don’t be surprised if you’re tempted to request a second one. The same goes for the candied bacon deviled eggs. The bacon may seem like the reason for ordering this dish off the snack menu, but actually it’s the eggs that shine. Hardboiled to order, they’re served still warm and filled with an airy yolk filling. Each is topped with a sliver of candied bacon (so good you wish there was more of it). The raw bar at NIXS Hartford is remarkably fresh, perfectly briny like the ocean that is nowhere near the state’s capital. Topped with cocktail sauce, ginger soy and fresh squeezed lemon, the oysters and clams slide down in just the way they’re supposed to. For food this good, it’s not too expensive—you can get a full meal with multiple plates and two rounds of drinks for a party of three for under $150. Take a seat in the industrially luxe dining room, bar or lounge to enjoy your evening. That’s another interesting strength of this location—the versatility. There’s space for whatever kind of evening you’re looking for, including small spaces for intimate parties. On Saturday nights from 10 p.m. to close the restaurant turns into a nightclub complete with DJs, VIP table service and an upscale lounge. “We want to be the place you have lunch three times a week but also the place you have your bachelorette party or your birthday party,” says Blain. “A place to enjoy time with your friends and family.” With NIXS, downtown Hartford may finally get that exciting nightlife it has always wanted to offer as an amenity to visitors. All of the restaurants in the Front Street District work together to create a destination for the Hartford workforce to stop by on their way home from the office and a reason for a younger crowd to come into the city on the weekends. NIXS is sandwiched between Infinity Music Hall & Bistro, which also opened recently, and The Capital Grille, a classic steakhouse with sister locations in Stamford, Boston, Los Angeles and Las Vegas. Across the street sits the recently built Ted’s Montana Grill, the latest venture of media tycoon Ted Turner. “When one of us succeeds, we are all succeeding,” says Blain. “It’s been amazing. We have the best neighbors, and the people who come here are so happy Hartford has something like this.” NIXS Hartford is a happy addition to impressive culinary company. With its urban sensibility and upscale American classics the restaurant is already drawing a crowd. Stop in for dinner and then move on to a neighboring establishment for another drink, or vice versa. With all of these restaurants working together, you can now make a night in downtown. nixshartford.com. Table Talk BY ELISE MACLAY We haven’t dined there yet but for dedicated foodies, the most exciting restaurant news in the state is the opening of a tiny Japanese restaurant in Westport by maverickgenius and celebrated chef’s chef, Bill Taibe. Well acquainted with Japanese cuisine and cooking techniques, Taibe also possesses the passion for excellence that even a casual izakaya-style hole-in-the-wall demands. Kawa Ni, as he calls his new restaurant, is an authentic example of the genre, purveying food and drink in equal measure, heavy on whisky, beer and sake and Japanese fast food: broths and ramen, rice bowls, raw fish, dumplings, pickled vegetables—the menu is pared down to include only the best version of each dish. (203) 557-8775, kawaniwestport.com Dinner is served at the bistro in the new Infinity Hall in Hartford. Lunch, too. The menu is a rollicking compendium of fun food starting with a category for hush puppies—one filled with lobster, poblano peppers, corn and creole remoulade. Small plates include chicken empanadas with peppers, raisins, pine nuts, Manchego cheese and lime sour cream. Flatbreads boast toppings of arugula, pear, bacon, figs and truffle vinaigrette while entrées range from beef rib eye and pork flat iron steak to a crispy beet crêpe with spinach goat cheese pesto and roasted vegetable filling. Dogs and burgers and all that jazz, of course. (860) 560-7757, infinityhall.com After a series of soft openings and come-on-in open house invites, Washington Prime in South Norwalk is up and running and the crowds are still coming. Fairfield County’s revolving door habit makes openings iffy, but things are looking good on the corner of Washington and Water Street in SoNo, a prime location if ever there was one. The space is stunning—white marble counter, hot orange industrial iron beams arching above. The food is hip surf-and-turf with a vibrant Latino beat, lots of dishes packing lots of heat. Among the bold take-no-prisoners offerings: octopus with pickled peppers, duck fat, marble potatoes and chili-garlic sauce. As its name implies, Washington Prime also offers a steakhouse menu, all aged and USDA-certified prime. How about mussels with smoked tomato and house-made sausage, olives, chilies, white beans and fenneluni butter? Why not? (203) 857-1314, washingtonprimect.com