Michael Lee-Murphy 2017-04-20 14:57:38
NEW MYSTIC LOCATION FOR BREAKFAST AND LUNCH IS COMFORTABLE, BOLD
Breakfast can shape the day, and a breakfast spot can be a place to collect one’s thoughts, run into neighbors and friends, and connect with each other about happenings in the town. Rise, a new breakfast-and-lunch spot in downtown Mystic, checks all these boxes, with fantastic food and adventurous twists on classic fare.
After opening last August, Rise has steadily attracted a stream of attention and accolades. On a recent morning visit, the small space was full — full of people, of chatter, of days getting off to a good start. Owner and chef Melody Pere is a proud Mystic local, born and raised. She says that she did a lot of traveling around the country in her younger years, “with the intention of finding somewhere else to live.” But home is home. “When all was said and done, I came home and realized that this is where I wanted to be, so I made a move to really settle here,” she says. “I have a great group of friends here, my family is all here, it’s kind of the perfect balance between nature and civilization, not difficult to get into New York or Boston, so it’s kind of an ideal central location.”
Pere is a veteran of the kitchen at Mystic’s Oyster Club, a less-than-one-minute walk from Rise. “I’ve lived here my whole life and I’ve worked on [Water Street]. I’ve passed by this space thousands of times and I never noticed that it existed,” she says. It’s easy to see why she overlooked the space. Rise is located on the ground floor of a three-story building with a second-floor porch hanging over it. “One day I was walking, passed it and I kind of looked over and it caught my eye. And I said to myself if it ever becomes available, I want to look into it because I see it so clearly that it can make a really cute little restaurant or cafe. And sure enough, I was walking by weeks later and there was a big ‘for lease’ sign in the window, and I said to myself if I don’t call, I will never forgive myself,” she says.
A large renovation resulted in a sleekly designed open kitchen with a Nantucket gray color scheme that fits with the nautical-design elements that abound in Mystic. While it will take some time to develop the lived-in feel that is so essential to a good hometown eatery, the atmosphere is homey and comfortable.
The food was delicious, with a menu including standards that breakfast junkies have come to rely on. But there are twists that, once tasted, seem obvious, such as an egg sandwich with Italian sausage and provolone ($7), and pancakes with toasted coconut, key lime cream and pistachios. (Local flour from Farm to Hearth Bakery just up the road in Salem is the secret to the pancakes, Pere says.) The latter was from the specials menu, but the curious should check back often to see what Pere comes up with. She says the signature dish at Rise (so far) is the homemade hash ($11) made with in-house brisket.
While Rise is most certainly a breakfast-centric place (it’s served any time), a selection of sandwiches, soups and salad fill that mid-day hole in your stomach. The lunch fare isn’t as adventurous as the breakfast menu, with simple, classic sandwich options such as roast beef ($10), turkey club ($9) and grilled cheese ($6). The coffee, likewise, is simple and classic. No espressos, lattes, macchiatos or cortados. There’s just coffee (local, of course, from Mystic Coffee Roasters): hot or cold, self-serve from a hodgepodge of mugs.
Rise
10 Water St., Mystic 860-415-9519, risemysticct.com
Hours: Mon. 7 a.m.-2 p.m., Closed Tues., Wed.-Sat. 7 a.m.-2 p.m., Sun. 8 a.m.-2 p.m.
Wheelchair accessible
One Dish: Colombian Arepas
RUBAMBA, NEW HAVEN
Rubamba is a restaurant specializing in a variety of Latin American foods, and with locations in New Haven and Oaxaca, Mexico, Rubamba definitely scores points for authenticity. From fresh, addictive guacamole to bigger-than-you-can-hold tortas, a type of Mexican sandwich, the dishes here have become so popular at the Connecticut Magazine newsroom that runs to the restaurant are cause for mini-celebrations. A favorite is the Colombian-style arepas. Arepas are a round, corn-based bread with an almost pancake-like consistency, often served with a variety of meats and other ingredients. At Rubamba, Venezuelan-and Colombian-style arepas are offered. The Venezuelan variety are smaller, more sandwich-like, while the Colombian arepas are bigger and served in a large plate with rice and beans. The ingredients — including Cuban-style pulled pork and marinated beef — are dumped on top of the arepa, which must be eaten with a fork and knife. The slightly sweet arepa is light and airy, and tastes like the love child of a corn tortilla and slice of cornbread. A recent order of the Colombian pollo arepa did not disappoint, with the arepa serving as the perfect vehicle to scoop up the grilled chicken breast and toppings like guacamole and pico de gallo, as well as sides like sweet plantains. One serving is more than enough for a meal; to date only one member of the Connecticut Magazine staff has been able to eat it all in one sitting.
203-773-0032, rubamba.com
Published by New Haven Register formerly 21st Century Media Newspapers . View All Articles.
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